Michael Yeager Photography
Photography Blog
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Artwork on Display (Sept/Oct '12)

To my friends / fans in the Phoenix metro area...  I'm pleased to announce that several pieces of my artwork are on display and for sale at the Cup O' Karma: Community Cafe for a Cause.  20% of all sales proceeds from the coffee shop will be donated.  

The coffee shop is located at 1710 W. Southern Ave, Mesa, AZ 85202.

For more information about the coffee shop and the non-profit organization, check out this link: natn-az-com.doodlekit.com/home/cok_story

RAW Artist Exhibit - Scottsdale, AZ on June 14, 2012

I'm excited to announce that I will be one of the featured artists at the upcoming RAW: Natural Born Artists event on June 14.  This event takes place at the Martini Ranch [7295 E. Stetson Drive, Scottsdale, AZ  85251] from 8:00 pm - 12:00 am.

I will have several pieces of my artwork on display as well as for sale.

Tickets for the event are $10 each.  When purchasing tickets, please be sure to select that you are supporting "Michael Yeager." 

You may purchase tickets using the "Buy a Ticket for this Artist" link on this website: http://www.rawartists.org/msmithaz

This is an excellent opportunity to enjoy the talents of several local artists.  Please come out and support us! 

Thank you!!

Countdown to Venice Trip

I am in the anxious preparation phase prior to my trip to Venice. In addition to tying up loose ends at work and ensuring that things at home are ready for my time away, I am meticulously getting my camera gear in order.

Prior to any big trip or major photo event, I will take my DSLR camera to my local camera store (specifically, Tempe Camera) to have the sensor cleaned.  They charge $35 to clean a crop-factor sensor and $45 for full-frame.  It's definitely worth getting those annoying dust spots taken care of beforehand.  Not to mention the time it will save in post-processing.  

I anxiously retrieved my camera yesterday -- having dropped it off two days before, I was really starting to develop separation anxiety!  Now that I have my camera back, I am making sure that I have the essentials taken care of:
  • Camera batteries (all four of them) charged and ready to go
  • Battery charger packed
  • External flash batteries (and backups) charged
  • Memory cards formatted and packed
  • Lenses selected for the trip
  • Bag picked out (I avoided the temptation of purchasing a new one -- the illusive "perfect" bag must be out there somewhere). For this trip, I have decided to use my Tamrac Evolution 9 backpack because it has enough space for the gear I plan to bring, has space for my netbook and tablet, as well as having an attachable rain cover.
  • Netbook computer storage cleared off for my nightly photo backups (power supply packed)
  • Travel tripod packed and checked to make sure that the mounting bracket is with it
  • Neutral density filters packed
  • Memory card reader packed
  • USB cables packed
  • International power adapter
Stay tuned for new photos from Venice ...

Be Prepared for the Shoot

Being prepared for a photo shoot means a lot of different things.  Some of the obvious ways to prepare include knowing where you'll be shooting, having the right type of equipment for the shot, knowing what settings will work best for the images you are trying to create, and having a concept for the shoot.

One tip that I strongly recommend before you head out the door for the shoot is to take out the camera (and external flash if you'll be using it) and snap a quick photo.  This will ensure that you have a memory card that works as well as knowing that you have batteries in your camera.  I've made the mistake once of leaving my freshly charged batteries on the charger at home -- there's nothing worse than getting to the shoot and realizing that you can't power up your camera!

Choosing the right Digital Camera

As a photographer, I frequently get asked about what type of camera I would recommend someone to buy.  That is a question that can only be answered by "it depends."  With the holidays quickly approaching, I know that many people like to have a good camera (either as a gift for someone else or for themselves).  I offer the following advice when making this decision...

Brand -- This is a tricky one as many of the top manufacturers have models that are very close in capabilities and image quality.  The Canon vs. Nikon discussions often reminds me of the old "Ford vs. Chevy" debates.  I personally shoot Canon, but I have several friends who prefer Nikon (note: Canon and Nikon shooters can still be friends).  These are the top two manufacturers, so either would be good choices to start with.  However, I have tried several other brands such as Olympus, Sony, and Pentax.  When it comes down to it, you really need to determine what features will be required for what you are wanting to accomplish with your photography.

What do you need it for? -- If you are wanting to be able to have a conveniently sized camera that is easy to carry in your pocket or purse, then the small point-and-shoot camera is probably your choice. However, if you are wanting to have more creative control of the images you are creating and don't have an issue with the size and weight of a larger camera, then you will probably be requiring a DSLR (Digital Single-Lens Reflex) camera.  There are several high-end point-and-shoot cameras that offer manual overrides for aperture, shutter, ISO, or all of the above, which enables you to take full or partial control.  I use a relatively large DSLR and have several lenses and other accessories that I lug around with me.  I can tell you that after carrying that gear on several trips, it doesn't take long to realize that it does get exhausting -- not to mention that it is difficult to maneuver through a crowded street with a huge camera backpack strapped on.

Image size -- The image size (megapixels) is often a top selling point for a camera.  In reality, anything 10 megapixels or higher will be adequate for standard prints and good sized enlargements.  One of my older cameras was a 10 megapixel Canon, with which I frequently printed images 20"x30" with no noticeable pixelation.

Optical vs Digital zoom -- My opinion is that this should be one of the top deciding factors in your selection process if you are looking for a point-and-shoot camera.  Optical zoom uses the physical optics/lens of the camera to bring the subject closer.  Digital "zoom" is not really zoom, but instead the image is enlarged from a portion of the captured view.  Digital zoom will cause a loss in image quality and will be especially obvious on enlargements.  My suggestion when using a point-and-shoot camera is to NEVER use the digital zoom range (disable it) -- you can capture the image using the optical zoom range and enlarge/crop in editing software later.  Many of the "cute" thin cameras that will fit very easily in your pocket have a lens not much bigger than a cell phone camera lens.  The better the optical zoom capabilities, the thicker the camera is going to be -- if image quality is a deciding factor, realize that you will need a physically bigger camera.

Sensor type -- there are two main types of image sensors in use by digital cameras: CCD and CMOS.
- CCD (Charge-Coupled Device) sensors create higher-quality, lower-noise images.  These types of sensors tend to have higher quality pixels and more of them.  On the downside, these types of sensors do consume significantly more power and will require more frequent battery charges (note: have a charged, spare battery handy for longer shooting).
- CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor) sensors consume less power than CCD. However, these types of sensors are more susceptible to digital noise and are less sensitive to light.  Cameras with CMOS sensors do tend to be less expensive and will have great battery life.  Advances in CMOS technology have increased image capabilities and have made sensor type less of a determining factor.

Sensor size - the size of the image sensor is a factor to consider when selecting a larger DSLR camera. Larger sensors result in clearer images, but these will also be heavier and cost more because they require larger internal optics to transmit the light from the lens to the viewfinder and sensor. Sensor size on a DSLR camera will determine if there is a "crop-factor" to be considered when choosing lenses.  Full-frame sensors (such as on the Canon 5D Mark II) do not have a crop factor, meaning that an actual 50mm lens will result in a 50mm focal length.  Smaller Canon and Nikon cameras will have a 1.6x and 1.5x crop factor, respectively.  This means that a 100mm lens on a 1.6x crop factor Canon will result in a 160mm focal length.  This ideal if you are wanting a better optical zoom (requiring less weight and cheaper lenses), but will cause some challenges if you ware wanting a wide-angle shot, such as with a landscape.  (Note: I will have a future blog on the topic of lens selection for DSLR cameras -- there's way too much information to include in this blog today)

Overall recommendation: 

  1. Go into the purchasing decision knowing what you are wanting out of the camera. 
  2. Know your budget.
  3. Don't be tempted by the pretty colors of the cameras -- instead, closely review the features of the camera.
  4. Purchase from a reputable store -- many stores will have a return policy that will allow you to use the camera for 10-30 days.  If you are not happy with the camera, you will be allowed to return it for a refund or exchange it for a different camera.

Neutral Density Filters

A useful tool that photographers use to create a variety of effects is the Neutral Density (ND) filter. 

You may be asking why they're called "Neutral."  Essentially, they are just grey filters that reduce the light passing through the lens.  This type of filter reduces and/or modifies the intensity of colors and light equally, yet makes no changes in the hue of the colors.

The general purpose of this type of filter is to allow you to use a wider aperture and/or a slower shutter speed.  This will enable you to achieve (intended) motion blur and create other effects.

For example, on a bright sunny day, you might want to photograph a waterfall.  With the standard camera settings (fast shutter and minimum aperture), the camera will stop the movement of the water.  The use of the ND filter will enable you to slow the shutter speed to create different blurring effects.

To summarize, some uses for the Neutral Filter include:
  • Blurring water motion - a slower shutter speed allows you to capture that milky water effect, even on sunny days. 
  • Enabling use of a wider aperture setting to reduce the depth of field - this is especially useful if you want to better isolate your subject, such as in a portrait in bright daylight.
  • Reducing the visibility of moving objects - such as being able to eliminate people from an image, pedestrians are effectively removed from the image if you use a longer exposure.
  • Add intentional blur to moving objects - such as a soccer ball being kicked
Varieties of Neutral Density Filters:
  • Specific filter strength - a filter that has a single optical density
  • Graduated ND Filter - This type has a gradual transition across the surface of the filter. This is useful when one part of the image is bright and the rest is not, such as when taking a photo of a bright sky and a dark foreground, or of a bright snow-covered foreground and a darker background.
  • Neutral Density Filter Wheel - this consists of two perforated glass disks that have progressively denser coating applied around the perforation on the face of each disk. When the two disks are counter-rotated, the optical density is evenly adjusted (darkened / lightened). The added benefit to this type of filter is that it does not require you to physically remove and mount a different filter to create different effects; simply rotate the filter disks to set a different density.
Neutral Density Factors:
  • ND.3 (exposure adjustment = 1 stop, reduces ISO by 1/2)
  • ND.6 (exposure adjustment = 2 stops, reduces ISO by 1/4)
  • ND.9 (exposure adjustment = 3 stops, reduces ISO by 1/8)
  • ND 1.8 (exposure adjustment = approx. 6 stops, transmits 1% of light,)
  • ND 3.0 (exposure adjustment = 10 stops, transmits 0.1% of light)
  • ND 4.0 (exposure adjustment = 13-2/3 stops, transmits 0.01% of light)
  • ND 6.0 = (exposure adjustment = approx. 20 stops)


(multiple combined images of a skateboarder - use of ND filter allowed for subject to be blurred)

Fine Art Prints

I have had recent inquiries about how to purchase my fine art photos.
Several of my photos are now available for online ordering. When placing your order, you can select size, canvas or archival print, mat / mounting types, and frames if desired.

Check out this link for architecture images:  <a href="http://fineartamerica.com/art/photographs/architecture/all" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">architecture photos</a>

Link for Italy images: <a href="http://fineartamerica.com/art/photographs/italy/all" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">italy photos</a>

Hawaii images: <a href="http://fineartamerica.com/art/photographs/hawaii/all" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">hawaii photos</a>

Floral images: <a href="http://fineartamerica.com/art/photographs/flower/all" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">flower photos</a>

Also, to view other work from me, try this link: <a href="http://michael-yeager.artistwebsites.com/" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">my photos</a>

<a href="http://fineartamerica.com/art/photographs/ballet/all" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">ballet photos</a>

<a href="http://fineartamerica.com/art/all/ballet/prints" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">ballet prints</a>

<a href="http://fineartamerica.com/art/photographs/dancer/all" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">dancer photos</a>

<a href="http://fineartamerica.com/art/photographs/dancer/all" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">dancer photos</a>

<a href="http://fineartamerica.com/art/all/dancer/posters" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">dancer posters</a>

<a href="http://fineartamerica.com/art/all/dancer/prints" style="font: 10pt arial; text-decoration: underline;">dancer prints</a>

Level Horizon ... or Not

When making a photographic image, you need to pay attention to the details.  One of my biggest pet peeves with photographs (as many of my friends can attest) is seeing a photograph with a long, straight horizon line that slants in one direction, thus making it appear as if the contents of the image could slide off the side of the photo.  This is especially the case when the photo contains an object that we expect to see horizontal (such as the horizon line of the sky and water).

Some options to better ensure a level horizon include:
- Use a tripod. This will keep the camera steady and better enable intentional composition of the photo.
- Many cameras (point-and-shoot as well as DSLR's) have the capability of viewing a grid on the display screen as a visual guide.
- A small inexpensive bubble level can be attached to the camera or might be built into the tripod.

It's not always possible to have the camera exactly horizontal, especially when hand-holding the camera when taking the shot.  Getting the shot might require a quick draw of the camera and might not offer time to set up a tripod or apply other leveling techniques.  Don't worry -- all is not lost.  Slanted horizons can easily be corrected on the computer using one of many choices of image processing software (i.e. Photoshop, Lightroom, Gimp, etc.).

There is a time and place for level horizon lines.  Slanted images can add style, flair, and whimsy to a photo. On a wedding shoot that I once did on the beach, I had a combination of level and slanted shots.  My level shots were more of the traditional wedding photos, showing the sincerity in the couple's eyes.  Some other shots that I took at that same event showed the couple splashing about in the water and I captured those moments at about a 30 degree slant, which portrayed the fun and happiness of the wedding.

My final comments on whether or not to level the horizon ... if you want to slant the horizon, slant it -- but do it intentionally.  A slightly crooked horizon can detract from an otherwise great photo.

Memory Cards - Erasing vs. Formatting

The abundance of options available within a digital camera's menu can be confusing.

There are two methods to remove images from a memory card, both of which should be used. 

Erasing -
Erasing can be done whenever it is needed to remove individual images, such as when your card is at full capacity and you need more space for some additional shots.

Formatting -
Formatting a card will also remove images and directories (all images, even the ones that are protected).  In addition to cleaning out the files on the card, formatting also improves the overall performance of the card and keeps it working like new.  Also, it is recommended that you format your memory card several times a year, particularly if the performance seems sluggish when saving new images.  Format more often if the card is used more frequently.

It is best to erase and format memory cards in the digital camera, not via a computer.  If you are using a card that was used in a different camera (especially if it was used in a different brand of camera), format the card before you use it to record new shots.

As I've mentioned in my previous blog (Memory Cards and Preventing Photo Loss), you should be following a normal process to copy your images off of your memory card(s) as well as making duplicate copies for safe keeping.

Memory Cards and Preventing Photo Loss

A friend of mine recently approached me about trying to locate images on her camera's memory card that seem to have disappeared.  There were, of course, images that had been there at one time that were no longer on the card.

I was not able to locate the images, which led me to believe that something was done inadvertently to wipe out all of the previously recorded images.

The cause of the disappearing images is a mystery that we may not be able to determine the root cause.  But this does point out a very important issue that I see quite a bit.  It is all too easy to keep the images on the memory card until it is at the point of being full before uploading them to a computer or some other storage location.  This is even more prevalent now that larger memory cards are available at very reasonable prices.  The result of using a larger memory card without having a routine of copying them someplace safe, is that more photos (some irreplaceable) will be lost.

Image loss on memory cards can happen in a variety of ways:
- Unintentional (or intentional) deleting from the camera's menu
- Physical loss of the card (they are quite small and easy to misplace)
- Theft - Many camera bags are quite obvious that they contain equipment that would be of value to others
- Physical damage (these cards are easy to damage -- heat, water, strong magnets are all dangerous to the card)
- Worn out card - these cards do degrade over time and will eventually need to be replace as they become unreliable.

My recommendations to prevent image loss include the following:
- Use multiple cards -- having all of your images on a single card is akin to keeping "all of your eggs in one basket." Using multiple cards will allow you to continue shooting if the card you are using fills up.  Also, it is less likely to lose or damage multiple cards at the same time.
- Make a point of copying your images from your card to a computer shortly after they are taken.
- After you copy them to your computer, make a second copy that can be kept away from your computer.
- Keep your valuables within reach and keep aware of your surroundings.
- Carry protection from the elements (Ziploc bags, plastic garbage or grocery bags). Special tip: When traveling, the plastic shower caps found in your hotel room work well to cover your camera -- I have used these on several occasions when shooting pictures in a light rain, heavy fog, or where you might get mist from waves.

When I travel, the practice that I follow is to copy my images from my card that I've used that day to my netbook computer that I travel with. (Note: I use a relatively inexpensive netbook computer solely for the purpose of being an temporary storage for my travel photos.)  Once the photos are copied to that computer, I place the memory card back in the camera and store the computer someplace safe.  If that memory card is full or close to being full, I return it to its storage case and put it someplace safe (such as the hotel safe).  I will then use a second memory card for the following day.  It is important to note that I do NOT delete the images from the used card(s) until I return home -- I will have the original on the card and the backup copy on the netbook computer. Generally, I travel with 4-6 separate memory cards and am diligent about making the daily copies.  It is only when I return home and AFTER I copy all of the trip's images to my network storage that I will feel comfortable removing the images from the memory cards.